Approach Shoes Review

It’s that magical time of year again when the high country holds just enough snow to create a mystical contrast to the rich green valleys and sparkling wildflowers below. When granite walls peel back their foreboding ice and imposing cold and invite us to embrace the challenge and puzzle solving of moving over stone up multiple pitches basking in the warmth of summer and the reward of a cold plunge in the river dancing along the base of the peak.

Approaching backcountry peaks and climbs often entails a high price of entry. Long hard hours slogging heavy loads puts a huge demand on our feet. Choosing the right shoe for the task is not easy. The balance of wanting a “light” shoe to carry up a 10-pitch route but be stable and comfortable enough to go 18 miles with a big pack is no simple task. More importantly, many approaches entail endless, tedious, talus hopping and slick slab walking to get to the base of routes, let alone sun cupped snow that requires micro spikes. Sticky rubber and the right outsole tread are critical to avoiding the dreaded ankle roll or slippery slide to injury.

We set out to test an array of women’s approach shoes to give you a sense of their pros and cons and help you decide what works best for your summer adventures. While fit is likely the most critical aspect of finding a good shoe that will go the distance, we found that the next most important feature for talus hopping was the outsole, both its tread and how sticky its rubber is. Weight vs. stability and breathability took a backseat to fit and outsole function. Of course, color and style still affect our choices.

It amazed our testers that companies promote women’s lasts and specific fits, yet the most common differences of the average women’s foot shape are a wider forefoot and narrow heel. Unfortunately, some of the women’s specific shoes we tested missed the boat on fit. Finally, after all our testing, we found almost all the new approach shoes to be similar in the rubber and tread they used. All the new models use a hiking lug tread on the outsole and while this is great for trails, they lack the one feature critical to climbing approaches: a sticky dot rubber outsole that will instill confidence on steep slabs going up or down. Thankfully, an old standby, La Sportiva’s TX3, continues to use dot rubber.

La Sportiva

TX4 EVO ST

Price: $159
Fabrics: Vibram megagrip outsole, rubber rand, mesh upper, re-soleable outsole.
Weight: 10.5 oz.
Testers' Beta: We were excited that this new color mesh was a new version of the teal TX3 that has been around for a decade or so, but the TX4’s changes in fit and function were found to be less than ideal. The toe box is wide but the tongue is sewn in and that makes the fit on the forefoot feel tight. Some testers cut the tongue after one trip to create needed space.

After lots of approaches on talus of different rock types, surprisingly, it would slip and skid out way more than expected. The rubber and hiking lug tread were not confidence-inspiring on slabs and talus and definitely not as sticky as the dot rubber outsole of the TX3. They claim to use the same rubber so the lug outsole is the big difference.

The tongue, being attached to the shoe and not free floating like the TX3, makes it hard to pull it back and get a good fit, and it tends to bunch up and feel tight and constricting. While it keeps out scree and dirt, its lack of width negates that benefit.

Overall: The re-soleable outsole would seem like a great feature, but the reality is that it needs the dot rubber outsole of the TX3, where resoling would be a dream feature. As is, it’s unlikely you’d need a resole before the upper mesh breaks down. The new color is refreshing and appreciated after a decade of teal in the TX3. But the rest of the shoe really has nothing on the TX3. The fit is tighter and not quite as comfortable for long approaches, and the outsole is not as sticky and it weighs more than the TX3.

Top Pick: Best Women's Approach Shoe!

La Sportiva

TX3

(The only model here that is not new)
Price: $159
Fabrics: Vibram megagrip traverse outsole, dot rubber. Rubber rand, mesh upper, wide toe box.
Weight: 10 oz.
Testers' Beta: Great fitting out of the box into the mountains with a heavy pack. Comfortable, breathable, quick to dry, and stable. Without doubt, of all the testers and climbers we talked to, it was their favorite approach shoe. The mesh upper stretches nicely to accommodate bunions, and the outsole sticks to all talus and slab approaches even when wet, and it’s stable enough to carry a heavy pack.

Salewa

Wildfire NXT

Price: $179.95
Fabrics: Seamless Kevlar Matryx fabric upper, the gravity rubber rand reinforcement wraps and protects the heel and toe. Vibram megagrip outsole. Custom fit footbed.
Weight: 10.4 oz.
Testers' Beta: This shoe is super comfortable out of the box with a very wide forefoot. The size felt a little big compared to others tested, and may be why the heel was a bit sloppy, but the lacing system is good for cinching it all down. The shoe is on the ‘stiffer’ side of approach shoes which made it nice and stable, especially since it was still pretty light, a good balance for carrying heavy packs.

The outsole however, has a tread that is not sticky enough on talus and tends to slide. This megagrip rubber is helpful, but the tread, like most others in this review, have gone to more of a hiking lug tread that is not as good for talus and rock approaches as having at least some sticky dot rubber tread underfoot. The weight to stability ratio is really good however, making it great for taking on long approaches and carrying on your harness up 15 pitches. We took it on long overnight climbing trips and single day climbs in the Sierra, over wet stone, dry talus and some mossy slabs.

One tester’s notes in particular: I am a fan of Salewa shoes in general and have had good luck with them pretty consistently, esp being quite comfy out of the box. I was impressed with the cushion and comfort straight away (I felt the opposite about the Arc’teryx Konseal). They feel like a cross between a trail running shoe and an approach shoe, which I appreciate as my feet have some chronic issues. These days I’m willing to sacrifice a bit of stickiness and precision for more of a running shoe type of comfort. However, I preferred the more anatomical foot shape of the Scarpa Rapid LT to these; they put a bit of pressure on the insides of the balls of my feet. They are not super stiff - much less stiff and precise than the Scarpa Rapid LT. The lacing system is super durable as is the entire upper of the shoe. The lugs on the heel and the part of the sole just under the heel are pretty aggressive and large and seem unnecessary for an approach shoe. The heel-toe drop and heel cushion also feel a little excessive - the drop is very noticeable at 10mm.

Arc’teryx

Konseal FL2

Price: $145
Fabrics: Vibram megagrip outsole. TPU raised sidewalls and toecap. Lightweight and plenty breathable.
Weight: 10 oz.
Testers' Beta: (Lots of it here!)
Out of the box and into the mountains, the low profile, lightweight and relatively good stickiness of the outsole made this shoe one to love initially. However, two downsides after three hours of hiking with a big pack up and down big passes in the Sierra, were the narrow toe box which especially pinched and exacerbated the testers with bunions or wide feet. And the heel was a bit sloppy, which on technical slab walking was less than ideal. Its narrow profile actually manifested in a rolled ankle as it lacked the stability of a wider toe profile. The city aesthetic of this one was a break from the common outdoor look of most approach shoes, but it also felt a little out of character in the mountains, eliciting comments like “nice nursing shoes” or “what are those”?

Specific tester’s beta: I did a cragging day in the Gallatin in these shoes, as well as a lower-upper Watchtower linkup with a walkoff. For the cragging day I scrambled up a chimney in the shoes, and found them to be quite sticky on rock. This shoe really shined taking it up a multipitch with a walkoff since it’s so lightweight. The rubber is great on talus and scrambling, but I found it to be particularly slippery and sloppy on pine straw and lichened rock.

The fit is a little narrow, though I didn't find it as narrow as the TX guides. The mesh is stretchy around the widest part of the foot, making it comfortable despite its narrowness—and I have wide feet. The heel-toe drop is high (11mm)— which I don’t like, but personal preference. I like that it had an extra lace hole for the runner's loop. The loops on the back of the shoe seem sturdy enough for clipping to a harness, though I’d always back it up with the laces anyway.

The style is more sleek/urban from other approach shoes– nice to have a different style option, though the color isn’t my favorite. The white sole got dirty immediately. The label says they’re for approach, trail running, and boating. They don’t seem like a good running shoe to me, but I could see them being good for boating with the white outsole that won’t leave a mark. Overall, it wouldn't be my first choice for style and fit (due to the drop), but it is quite lightweight so good for multipitches.

Another tester’s beta: The first thing I thought when I saw them was that they looked like old-timey hospital uniform shoes or like they belonged at a yacht club. It feels like Arcteryx is trying to reach a certain type of city person who wants “approach shoes” that can also be dressy casual for walking around town…? I’m skeptical how long the mesh upper and lace loops would last; they do not feel durable enough to me to last multiple seasons. The uppers resemble that of a road running shoe rather than the durability of a trail shoe. The soles were actually surprisingly sticky while approaching a climb on a steep talus field. I scrambled up some short chimneys and 4th/easy 5th class sections in them and the rubber seemed high quality and felt trustworthy and sticky. However, going downhill or making technical moves in them was not super comfortable to me because of the narrow toe box. They compress the widest parts of my foot including my sesamoids, so I did not want to take them for super long mileage knowing that they would likely cause soreness in those areas.

I did like the low profile design, light weight, and minimal lugs for moving through technical sections and carrying on a harness. I would not trail run in them because I generally like my trail runners to have bigger lugs, a bit more cushion, and a foot-shaped toe box.

SCarpa

Scarpa Rapid XT

Price: $179
Fabrics: Vibram megagrip outsole, suede leather upper and full perimeter TPU rand.
Weight: 11.6 oz.
Testers' Beta: We loved the fit of this shoe out of the box, it has a good wide forefoot, nice heel fit and though a little heavier than others, it felt comfortable and agile in talus and rocky trails with a day climbing pack. It does run a bit large for its size. Again, it has more of a ‘trail’ outsole, which is not as sticky as dot rubber for wet talus or slabs or actual technical approach moves. But it feels very durable and a no frills option with quality leather for those who want a more weather and cactus resistant fabric!

SCarpa

Rapid LT (Men’s)

Price: $169
Fabrics: Vibram megagrip sole, knit fabric upper, full TPU rand, wide toe box.
Weight: 10.6 oz.
Testers' Beta: This shoe was really comfortable out of the box, there were no hot spots from hiking in these. One tester who has a wide foot and prefers a wide toe box said these allowed for plenty of room to spread her toes. That said, they run a bit large. She’s a solid size W’s 8.5 in most brands and I could’ve taken an 8 in these to make them feel less sloppy on the more technical descents. The rubber is a nice happy medium between durable and sticky. The lugs are similar in size to a hiking shoe and the rubber feels almost as burly as a hiking shoe, giving the sense that these shoes will last a long time and the rubber won’t blow out after a couple of seasons. That said, she didn’t love climbing more technical or wet sections of rock in these shoes because of the bigger lugs (for an approach shoe). They don’t give the super sticky sensation of lower profile lugs and dot rubber on dry rock, but they are definitely stiff enough to do some good edging or jam in a large crack on a technical approach. This tester prioritizes foot health and a wide toe box, as well as durability, over a highly-technical approach shoe. They also look and feel like a no frills, straightforward mountain shoe, without any fancy lacing designs that might blow out in the first season. The 6mm heel rise would be classified as a mid-drop; after wearing primarily Altras and Lems in recent years, this level of drop was noticeable but not painful.

These were a favorite for durability, foot shape, no bells and whistles, lightweight, and stiffness.

Header photo courtesy of Tori Pintar

Disclaimer of Liability: Technical rock and ice climbing is inherently dangerous. Neither Broad Beta, LLC., nor any of its employees, shall be held liable for any improper or incorrect use of the information described and/or contained herein, and Broad Beta, LLC. assumes no responsibility for anyone's use of the information.
Any person using our gear in any manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques and good judgment. We strongly recommend that every climber seek instruction by a qualified professional.

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