We felt fortunate to be invited to a press weekend for Patagonia’s debut of their new Free Wall Kit late last autumn. Having a couple days of single and multi-pitch climbing in this new gear alongside other women of different levels and body types made for a great chance to see how each product performed. We continued to test these products for the next two months both cragging and multi-pitching.
The kit itself has a unique product development approach. Its primary design focus is for a more esoteric form of climbing: big wall projecting. Patagonia ambassadors, Josh Warton and Doerte Pietron, were the inspiration behind this kit and there is no doubt how legit they are as some of the highest-level, well-rounded climbers from full on alpine climbing to hard rock sends. But this kit was made to work together on long multi-pitch projects, where time on a wall is usually just a long day out, but belays may be hanging and long while one climber works a pitch. Protection from wind, cold, abrasive rock and more inclement weather is paramount along with flexibility for the send.
We went on to test these products at the crag in various conditions as, in reality, most climbers will use them on terra firma more than the high vertical realms. While some products felt a bit specific and lacked a few more convenient features for cragging, they were all versatile enough to make for a great value.
Free Wall Pack
Price: $229
Weight: 2lbs. 9.3 oz.
Overview: This pack is Josh Warton’s baby and probably the most specific to big wall projecting in the kit. The haul straps are long and offset, the waist belt tucks away, and both allow it to be hauled up walls smoothly with an extra loop for clipping gear to the bottom. The foam lining adds a surprising amount of durability and structure to what does not at first appear to be a bomber fabric for a haul bag. Once at the belay, the pack tilts forward and is designed to be easy to open and stash or access layers quickly. Its large interior pockets even have color coded zippers so you won’t mistake your partner’s snacks for your own.
Broad’s Beta: While we liked to joke that this looks like some kind of new urban pack as it’s so sleek and subtle in color, we found it to be a great crag pack. It’s clean in design, has a nice big opening to chuck all your gear into and plenty of pockets for all things crag-specific.
A nice addition to make it more versatile for the crag would be a smaller haul handle and/or a way to stash the larger webbing haul loops. It carries well and is a great size for cragging. The challenge with this pack is that while it fits its intended design purpose, it doesn’t have the look of a durable wall haul bag and if you want a cragging pack, there are certainly other options built with more features for cragging. However, the extensive testing on walls that was done on the early prototypes of this pack convinced us of its durability for wall projects.
Durable Down Parka
Price: $575
Weight: 17.9 oz.
Overview: Now this felt like something new and very functional and versatile from Patagonia, right in line with their mission of solving problems with elegant, versatile solutions. This jacket uses a new ultra-durable but still lightweight face/outer fabric and a discontinuous quilting that really feels like it allows greater loft of the high-fill-power down, and enough down to be toasty warm, but not too heavy, on a big wall or a blustery canyon crag.
Broad’s Beta: We loved this new down jacket for cragging primarily, but also for packing it in and taking it on a multi-pitch project in the Free Wall Pack. Though it’s too big and heavy for light and fast multi-pitch missions, its durability-to-weight ratio is just right for keeping your partner happy on a long belay up high. And as for the crag, the helmet hood, big hand pockets and awesome new ‘mustard’ color for women were loved by all our testers. A sneaky storm flap snap at the hem with the two-way zipper makes belaying cozy warm and less bulky around the harness.
Free Wall Pants
Price: $155
Weight: 13.05 oz.
Overview: These pants are meant for colder days up high on a route. Durable, thick, nylon stretch woven fabric is wind and water resistant with plenty of stretch for the send. Minimally featured, a stealth waist adjustment helps offset the fixed elastic waistband, critical on multi-day efforts as the fabric stretches out. Another one on the leg hems lets you adjust the width around your ankles.
Broad’s Beta: We loved this fabric for cooler multi-pitch climbs year round. The fabric has been around a long time with dependable durability, great breathability, good wind resistance and dry time. The design of this pant had us asking a few questions, such as: why the back pocket on the women’s version? Our testers were not sure what to do with that and would have loved to trade it for some stealth hand pockets. The thigh pockets are perfect for a phone or snacks and much appreciated. The fit felt baggy on our smaller testers even in their size, but true to many Patagonia pants. The waist is clean and nice under a harness and easy to pull down for a quick bio break, which we loved. The pink color we tested elicited a love/hate for our testers as expected! Overall, our testers loved the simplicity, yet function of this pant. Other than wanting hand pockets, the only challenge was the baggier fit, especially when the fabric stretched out a bit on multi-day excursions. Overall, we loved this for cold cragging days or cooler multi-pitch adventures.
R1 Ultralight Hoodie
Price: $199
Weight: 7.76 oz.
Overview: This is the most versatile product in the kit. This hoodie is very warm for its weight with a bicomponent fabric: a smooth durable outer face and a very subtle, cozy open grid interior. It is clean, simple, functional and versatile.
Broad’s Beta:While our testers loved this fabric for cold cragging and some multi-pitching forays, our only issue was the fit. It’s designed to be a base layer so it fits quite close to the skin. While we sized up, even then it was a little snug, especially for cold cragging, and it just felt a bit clingy. The benefits were overwhelming, however. The deep neck zipper definitely helped to dump heat quickly. The vertical chest pockets are much appreciated as it’s handy to have a phone in one and a snack in another. The under-the-helmet hood is cozy and nice and it even stretches over a helmet if needed. The length is comfy and perfect under a harness. Our testers loved the fabric’s performance in a wide range of temperatures. Its smooth face also inspired confidence in its durability as an outer layer on abrasive rock. A great addition to any outdoor adventurer’s kit.
Houdini Rock Jacket
Price: $199
Weight: 4.23 oz.
Overview: This new addition to the Houdini family is a little more specific than its earlier versions. As a pullover, it is lighter and more packable, with a chest pocket to stuff it into and an over-the-helmet hood for convenience in belays and while climbing, making it easy to pull on and off when fully zipped. The fabric is new and a little crispier than past Houdini versions. It feels more wind resistant than other Houdini versions as well as a little more water resistant.
Broad’s Beta: This is an amazingly light, packable, functional shell for climbing and belaying up high on multi-pitch routes. If you love the weight savings of a pullover, it is breathable enough and versatile enough to make it the only windshell in your quiver. We used it for colder long approaches, windy mixed climbing crag sessions and the perfect belay warmth on a big wall. We loved it as a backup shell for ice and alpine climbing days. It was even warmer than expected with great wind resistance. We loved the deep zip for venting and pulling it on and off, and especially, the zippered chest pocket and helmet hood, all of which make this the best windshell for climbing. It easily stuffs into its chest pocket with a loop for clipping it to your harness.
Houdini Rock Pant
Price: $139
Weight: 3.88 oz.
Overview: These pants are the bomb as a “don’t think twice” about taking them with you on a climb, whether that’s working a project on a cold or windy wall or a backup on a multi-pitch climb when the forecast is sketchy. They are so light and packable, they disappear in your pack yet appear when you most need them. They have a unique lower leg spiral zipper that lets you pull them on over shoes and harness easily. A thigh pocket doubles as its stuff pocket with a loop for clipping them to your harness. They also double as a versatile wind pant for more endurance oriented endeavors, and are the perfect insurance against inclement weather on climbs. Their fit, ease of taking on and off and simplicity, allow you to climb in them as well as enjoy their warmth on a long belay.
Disclaimer of Liability: Technical rock and ice climbing is inherently dangerous. Neither Broad Beta, LLC., nor any of its employees, shall be held liable for any improper or incorrect use of the information described and/or contained herein, and Broad Beta, LLC. assumes no responsibility for anyone's use of the information.
Any person using our gear in any manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques and good judgment. We strongly recommend that every climber seek instruction by a qualified professional.
